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When compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. Yet, tucked high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small shop achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.